Making a Post-Apocalypse Watchtower
What you will need for this project.
1 - Find a suitably shaped piece of polystyrene, that is, a piece that has a flat, stable base and a pointy part going upwards. Bits sticking out can also provide standing room for your models. Remember, it needs to be smaller when it is finished than what you are going to use to store it in.
2- A modelling file or craft knife, a chopping board or another non-slip, safe cutting surface.
3- Five small paper clips or blue tac, two small nails and some thin pieces of a twig.
4- Cotton thread and glue.
5- Black primer, assorted poster paints and cheap brushes, protective cover.
6- Cardboard (about 1mm thick), 10 and a half inches long along the side by 4 and three-quarters inches wide. (12 cm by 27 cm).
6- Cardboard (about 1mm thick), 10 and a half inches long along the side by 4 and three-quarters inches wide. (12 cm by 27 cm).
7- Flat hardboard or similar to mount the model on.
The Base
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| Just primed, note the uneven notches cut in the top edge. "Watchtower 1" by Ivor Cogdell |
Using a modeller's file or craft knife, carve your steps into the polystyrene to get to the various levels and up the one corner of your pointy bit. Carve the top of the pointy bit level to what will be the ground. You can either have a small bare platform top without any protection for your lookout (using an old credit card or similarly sized cardboard shape, leaving it as it is in a worn rubble state or you can create a platform for multiple warriors. You can carve secondary lookout positions or passages, broken bricks that have come loose.
Once you are happy with the layout, paint with black or dark primer outside. You may need two or more coats of primer to get good coverage.
(This will make the item flammable, so keep away from naked flames.)
(Tip- If using spray paints, do it outside, wear a mask and clear gloves from the pharmacy. Put the polystyrene in an old Pizza box or put plenty of newspapers down if you do not have a protective sheet, so you will not get paint where you do not want it to go.)
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| Showing the original twig "Watchtower 2" by Ivor Cogdell |
Next, using small lengths of twig, add climbing supports for your figure, staggering their positions, left and right, to either side of the notches that you have cut into the tower. Make the hole with the nail first; otherwise, the twig might snap.
When selecting where to cut your twig, cut the section to be left sticking out at a Y section, cutting the base and one arm of the Y very short and the long arm of the Y going into the hole, You can add cotton to the tops of vertical stakes to give the impression of ropes and the Y joint gives a better securing point for the cotton.
Since the watchtower turned out to be bigger than I had initially imagined it to be, the base needs some extra support to balance it at the back, which has not been done as yet. An inch-thick pillar added at some point along the back should do the trick.
Since the watchtower turned out to be bigger than I had initially imagined it to be, the base needs some extra support to balance it at the back, which has not been done as yet. An inch-thick pillar added at some point along the back should do the trick.
Glue the watchtower to a base wide enough to give stability on the table, possibly adding coins or similar weights for extra stability. Paint and decorate with rubble to suit your layout.
For the watchtower itself, we move to the cardboard strip. The main section measures 3 inches along the side by 4 and three-quarters inches for the front of the roof. (75 mm by 12 cm). The measurements are based on 28 mm models; for other sizes, just reduce the size accordingly.
The back wall is 3 inches high and 3 and a half inches along the front. (75 mm by 9 cm).
The floor is 2 and three-quarters inches by 3 and a half inches along the front. (75 mm by 9 cm).
The front wall is 1 and a half inches high by 3 and a half inches wide. (75 mm by 9 cm).
The windows can be done to your taste; mine were three-quarters of an inch deep by half an inch wide.
(22 mm by 12 mm).
The sidewall pieces are 4 and a quarter inches long by an inch high. (11 cm by 25 mm). Cut out the individual firing slots to suit your model height.
The roof timber is 3 and 3/8 high by three-quarters of an inch (85 mm by 2 cm), bent at the top to give whatever roof angle you prefer, a steep or shallow one. I used 2 and 3/8 inches (6 cm).
(Tip - this gives easy access for your hand to move your models about inside the tower.)
The trapdoor in the floor should be cut last and positioned over your entry point (maybe yours has two or more - that's fine), with a wide enough gap for your soldier to go through. Cut along three of the sides and bend the other side up.
Secure the watchtower to the supporting pillar (or pillars) with a small nail or two pushed through the floor. The position of this spot should use the weight of the cabin itself to aid in the stability of the overall model, instead of just putting it at the centre of the floor.
Use small paper clips or blue tac to fasten the side wall flaps to the structure. Slip the wall pillar behind the left side wall flap, then attach the final paper clip to the pillar support flap under the roof.
That completes the main construction.
Draw on or paint the planks of wood where you want them, occasionally changing a plank colour, suggesting it has been scavenged from the wasteland. Carefully peel the top layer of the cardboard roof to produce a tin roof effect.
Possibly stick some patches on the side or distress it a bit with an arrow or spear sticking out of it.
I am currently adding broken lolly sticks to the outside of my outpost,
The Watchtower
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| All the cardboard laid out. "Watchtower 3" by Ivor Cogdell |
For the watchtower itself, we move to the cardboard strip. The main section measures 3 inches along the side by 4 and three-quarters inches for the front of the roof. (75 mm by 12 cm). The measurements are based on 28 mm models; for other sizes, just reduce the size accordingly.
The back wall is 3 inches high and 3 and a half inches along the front. (75 mm by 9 cm).
The floor is 2 and three-quarters inches by 3 and a half inches along the front. (75 mm by 9 cm).
The front wall is 1 and a half inches high by 3 and a half inches wide. (75 mm by 9 cm).
The windows can be done to your taste; mine were three-quarters of an inch deep by half an inch wide.
(22 mm by 12 mm).
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| "Watchtower 4" by Ivor Cogdell |
The sidewall pieces are 4 and a quarter inches long by an inch high. (11 cm by 25 mm). Cut out the individual firing slots to suit your model height.
The roof timber is 3 and 3/8 high by three-quarters of an inch (85 mm by 2 cm), bent at the top to give whatever roof angle you prefer, a steep or shallow one. I used 2 and 3/8 inches (6 cm).
(Tip - this gives easy access for your hand to move your models about inside the tower.)
The trapdoor in the floor should be cut last and positioned over your entry point (maybe yours has two or more - that's fine), with a wide enough gap for your soldier to go through. Cut along three of the sides and bend the other side up.
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| "Watchtower 5" by Ivor Cogdell |
Use small paper clips or blue tac to fasten the side wall flaps to the structure. Slip the wall pillar behind the left side wall flap, then attach the final paper clip to the pillar support flap under the roof.
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| Build is complete "watchtower 6" by Ivor Cogdell |
(Tip - The reason for the paper clip attachment instead of glue is that they can be taken off again and it can be stored flat in a container, or you could use "Blue- tac" on the inside.
To disguise the paper clips, plop a bit of goo on them and stick another length of cardboard board on top of them or stick of foliage in front of them.)
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| Front View "Watchtower 7" by Ivor Cogdell |
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| Side View "Watchtower 8" by Ivor Cogdell |
At this stage of the project, it does look a bit bland, but all that is needed is to paint it to taste, including the paper clips, in a dark brown or black.
Draw on or paint the planks of wood where you want them, occasionally changing a plank colour, suggesting it has been scavenged from the wasteland. Carefully peel the top layer of the cardboard roof to produce a tin roof effect.
Possibly stick some patches on the side or distress it a bit with an arrow or spear sticking out of it.
Add timber supports underneath it if you want, or walkways across to other structures, some foliage and extra rubble mixed in for effect.
With a different thickness of twigs, you could produce a ladder. Change them to flat lolly sticks and you can make a bridge. If you are really good with knots, you could fashion a swinging rope bridge like the movies have.
You could modify your shelter with a gap in the sidewall and a quick exit rope coming from the roof to the ground, or, if you want to get really fancy again, add a zip line to another model. Don't forget to add padding at the bottom to land on!
The front roof strut (shown in the left corner) could be replaced by a pole (made from old chopsticks or balsa wood).
The more little details you add in the better it will look.
You could modify your shelter with a gap in the sidewall and a quick exit rope coming from the roof to the ground, or, if you want to get really fancy again, add a zip line to another model. Don't forget to add padding at the bottom to land on!
The front roof strut (shown in the left corner) could be replaced by a pole (made from old chopsticks or balsa wood).
The more little details you add in the better it will look.
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| A quick coat of brown paint to dull it. |
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| Adding a Corrugated roof look |
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| Added detailing to the back |
But first, I added detailing with a black pen.
Here is the tower stretched out flat. The various colours of painted wood suggest that they have been recovered from assorted locations in the wastelands.
Here is the tower stretched out flat. The various colours of painted wood suggest that they have been recovered from assorted locations in the wastelands.
Nothing is wasted if possible, so they were used in its construction.
This is the rear of the lookout tower. I need more lollies, and they are yet to be painted. The roof is done, apart from painting it.
A second option would be to use the lookout section as a shack on the ground with an underground escape route. I have some more wood to add to the front and sides. It still needs to be given a weathered look.
Finally, bring on the massed warriors, let the battles commence and have fun.
Please send me a link to your site in the comments section.
Ivor Cogdell
This is the rear of the lookout tower. I need more lollies, and they are yet to be painted. The roof is done, apart from painting it.
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| Lookout rear and roof painted |
A second option would be to use the lookout section as a shack on the ground with an underground escape route. I have some more wood to add to the front and sides. It still needs to be given a weathered look.
Finally, bring on the massed warriors, let the battles commence and have fun.
Please send me a link to your site in the comments section.
Ivor Cogdell
Article updated - 31 October 2025.
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